The Final Day.

Text sent from the Tarbet Tearoom

"Back in Tarbet and have found the grave of three generations of my Campbells!! Beyond thrilled!!  Now in the tea shop - enjoyed a hot filled roll which is a bap filled with (in this case) a potato scone and a fried egg -delish despite it being rather odd for a scone to be a filling!  Heading down to the Bonnie Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond now.  The gravestone btw was very mossed up. I sacrificed a pair of gloves cleaning it!  Well worth it of course."

And then that evening we enjoyed dinner with Alex at The Bothy which is a fabulous Scottish restaurant.  Linda learned about this place from Mark of the Amsterdam Tea Shop in Winnipeg's Exchange who had worked there before emigrating years ago.  It was a great way to end our Glasgow adventure!

A Stirling Day!

You will remember me introducing you to Alex.  Nice chap.  Well, he got even nicer when he came on Wednesday and whisked Linda and me off for the day.

Helix Park and the Kelpies

I'd seen pictures of these often enough and thought them a little bizarre but didn't actually know what they were or why they were where they are.

They are the Kelpies and are part of the Helix Park project on the Forth and Clyde Canal which was conceived to bring the people of the different communities of the Falkirk area together.  The Kelpies are quite a feat of artistic engineering, standing 100 feet high and each weighing more than 3000 tonnes.

They honour the history of the horse in the industrial development of this area and are based on two real-life Clydesdales called Duke and Baron.  The installation is fairly recent - 2013 - and the setting is beautiful.  The Kelpies name comes from mythological transforming beasts which possess the strength and endurance of 10 horses.

From here we continued north into Stirlingshire.  We were heading for the city of Stirling and its famous castle but stopped off first at the site of the Battle of Bannockburn.

Battle of Bannockburn

For two days in June 1314 this most beautiful serene place was the site of one of the most significant moments in Scottih history.

 It was a battle between King Robert Bruce and the English King Edward II and it was won rather unexpectedly by the Scots.  The English numbered 20,000, the Scots 8000.  It would seem the difference was that the English were a bit pooped after marching from Berwick and the Scots were well trained.  But even so, it was still quite a victory for the Scots!

The result of this battle secured Robert Bruce as king of Scotland and then 14 years later the war ended with England recognizing Robert Bruce as king of Scotland and Scotland as an independent nation.

Stirling Castle

Stirling Castle is one of the largest and most important castles in Scottish history and has an exhausting (to read) historic timeline!  That's my cue for you to just google it!  We arrived at the castle gate too late to go inside but we did get to walk around the outside areas within the walls.

It's an amazing building looking over vast and lovely countryside giving a clear view of the famous Wallace Monument which celebrates William Wallace (1270-1305) who was the leader of the resistance forces during the early years of the struggle for independence.

Coming down from the heights of the castle we strolled around the town of Stirling which is quite lovely.  The usual:  cool old buildings, etc.  😎

Edinburgh - a capital day

A day in Edinburgh was planned and executed.  First reason was to visit the National Records of Scotland.  Second was to just take in the ambience of Scotland's capital city.  We got there by train which took about an hour.  The main station, Waverley, is on the famous Princes Street and one just need cross the road for the National Archives Building.  I enjoyed the morning in the research room but wasn't too terribly successful in finding anything to add to my family history knowledge but it was a lot to take in - what they hold, how you access it, etc.  I left happy knowing I now knew the lay of the land and would be able to return and be more productive.

The rest of the day was mostly taken up walking the Royal Mile.  Connecting two royal residences, the Royal Mile runs from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood House in the Old Town within a World Heritage Site. I loved it!  Wonderful buildings, nooks and crannies, little alleyways pulling you away to explore; small museums and historical buildings, big and small.  It was more than a half day's worth of itinerary of course but we made a valiant effort and enjoyed it immensely.

Before you ask, the Royal Mile is the length of a Scots mile which is somewhat longer than what we know as a mile.  After the union of the English and Scottish parliaments in 1701 the standard English mile was adopted across the board.

Greyfriars Bobby

We left the Royal Mile to take in Greyfriars Kirk Yard - Scotland's most famous cemetery.  It's got oodles of history but a lot of people mostly know it for the legend of Greyfriar's Bobby - the loyal Skye Terrier who, in 1858 began guarding his master's grave - and kept doing so for years and years until he died and was buried himself in Greyfriars.

Here are a few of my photos from the Royal Mile:

In 1999 Scotland got its own parliament and the rather curious (but architecturally acclaimed) building was built across from Holyrood Palace.  (note of interest:  Election to Scotland's Parliament is by proportional representation)  I realize the photo shows very little of the massive building (not sure what I was thinking😕)  

And a few other photos "off the mile"

And here's where "it" all started.  The Harry Potter books that is.

Fish and chips at the Black Rose pub then the 7:10 p.m. train back to Glasgow after a grand day in Auld Reekie.

Around Glasgow

I'm in danger of being back in Canada before finishing up this blog!  So let this one be a few "bits and bobs"  to help me catch up.....

Charles Rennie Mackintosh

Charles Rennie Mackintosh is a big deal.  I hadn't heard of him until I began preparing for this trip.  In brief he was an architect, designer and artist born in Glasgow in 1868 and died in London in 1928. His significance to the art and design world grew in the years since his death and Glasgow just oozes admiration for his work.  My experience has been brief but meaningful in having eaten twice in two separate Willow Tea Rooms (run now as social enterprises) and have seen some of his work in the Kelvingrove Museum.  I have also enjoyed the frequent and unexpected reminders around town.  Like this mural when I was exploring down by the River Clyde.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

In a city of amazing architecture the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is one of the best.  We arrived in time for a late lunch in the cafe and then didn't have much more than an hour to explore so we chose carefully.  The Charles Rennie Mackintosh exhibit was a given of course.

The Peoples Palace

Before I say anything about the Peoples Palace I have to say something about Alex.

Who is Alex you ask.  Well he is a friend of Nan in Vancouver who is a friend of Linda.  Nan and Alex met in Egypt in 1980 and have kept in touch ever since.

Alex came over late morning on Sunday and after having a good natter to get to know each other (and we got on superbly) we got into his car and drove through the rain to the Peoples Palace and spent the next few hours there.

Another wonderful building with a wonderful raison-d'etre - to pay tribute to the long working class history of Glasgow and to demonstrate through many media how Glaswegians have lived, worked and played since 1750 .  (It also has a cafe 😋).

Alex is a retired high school teacher from Oban and is the Amnesty International UK representative for Eritrea which was only one of the interesting things about him!

Mitchell Library

The Mitchell Library is one of Glasgow's most recognizable buildings with its distinctive copper dome.  It is the second location for the library which began in 1877 with a bequest by Stephen Mitchell (he made his money from tobacco).  A move to the current location was necessary when a huge collection was purchased from the University of Glasgow.  This new building was opened in 1907.  An extension was added in the 1980's in order to house what at the time was the largest reference collection in Europe.

I took a break from family history research in the ScotlandsPeople hub to take a tour of the library. It was great to go behind the scenes and to hear  the history and the stories of this grand place.  It's been a lending library since 2005 (before that it was reference only) and today it is a real hub for the community with the library working with organizations and services to support the people of Glasgow.  They have of course a very nice cafe.  Also nice chairs.

Dumbarton

I set out in the rain on Monday to the town of Dumbarton.  This required me to get to a main-line station and catch a train out of Glasgow heading north-west, hugging the River Clyde.  The journey took just under an hour.

My great grandparents - William Fisken and Isabella Campbell moved to Dumbarton and were married there in 1868.

Their daughter, Catherine, was also married there - in 1904 to William Glover of Newcastle in the north-east of England (they were first cousins).

I was interested in the churches where both couples had been married (they married for some reason in different churches).  I had done quite a bit of research prior to coming here to figure out just which church buildings I should be heading for.  Over the decades the names of churches have changed with various "disruptions"- and the buildings themselves have changed.  It was actually quite a challenge.  But I went with considerable confidence about where the Fisken/Campbell nuptials occurred.  On their wedding certificate it was stated they were married at West Bridgend according to the forms of the United Presbyterian Church.  I was pretty sure that this was now the West Kirk but that a new building had been built right next to the old one.  I use the terms old and new rather loosely.  The old was built in 1860,  the new in 1888.

So the "new" church is now the actual church

and the "old" is the church hall.  It was in this building, now the church hall, where William and Isabella exchanged vows 150 years ago!

And I arrived right in what had been the sanctuary just before lunch.  My timing was impeccable!  This was set-up day for a week long nearly new sale!  The place was a-buzzing with volunteers - and very welcoming volunteers they were too!

Pat Lister (my contact) was loads of fun.  She kept introducing me to people as someone who'd come all the way from Canada for the Nearly New sale!  The kitchen volunteers made sandwiches and served tea and biscuits and I was the guest of honour at the little sunday school tables!

Despite the fact that this building was the one I was most connected to, I was also very interested in the tour of the church which Pat took me on.  Knowing of my coming, she had tried to find some old things.  These, while not old enough for my family history, were fascinating nonetheless.

They included pew plans and the costs for renting, attendance registers etc.   And to top it off, the church sanctuary is absolutely gorgeous.  Beautiful windows, pipe organ, and original stencilling which was discovered during a renovation some years ago (it had been painted over).

So after tours, lunch, chatting and a good look 'round the nearly new tables (yes I bought things!) I set off back onto the High Street where I found the church where my grandparents were married in 1904.  

Their certificate had their ceremony take place in the United Free North Church in Dumbarton.

Unbeknownst to me I had walked right by it on my way to the first church.  It is now a ...... shopping centre.  The Bell Arcade.

Happily there was a plaque on the wall so I knew I had the right place and I did go in.  Bit of a dismal place but I tried to find a little bit of atmosphere (with help from an overactive imagination).

Just a note about Dumbarton.  Oodles of history.  1500 years worth.  It straddles the River Leven and where the Leven and the mighty Clyde meet, Dumbarton Castle sits on Dumbarton Rock (formed by a volcano).  The strategic significance of the rock goes back to the Iron Age.

But today (and maybe it was the rain) it seems a rather sad place.

Like many other towns, the high street is maintained by charity shops and poundlands.  I arrived back to the high street at what would have been the traditional closing of the pubs after the dinner-time (about 2 o'clock) and there were loads of ordinary middle aged men way too drunk.  They were cheerful and friendly - and a couple tried to be helpful to me.  I didn't feel threatened.  Just saddened.  So I was very friendly back!

Day was finished in the local history room of the library where I browsed interesting books and maps mostly and enjoyed a nice chat with a local fellow.